Sunday, March 27, 2016

Estee Lauder's BB Creams - Shades and Flashback

I've decided to investigate more skin care and cosmetics for potential flashback during flash photography. Since I'm already swatching products while preparing articles like this one, comparing product features, it's easy enough to look for flash as well.

For this series I will be looking at products in the same range, or of the same type, preparing swatches, and comparing ingredient lists. Today's range is Estée Lauder's broad, and somewhat confusing, line of BB creams.

My biggest question while researching this is: Why, if there are 5 different BB products of the same intensity ("Light" in this case), can't one of them match me well? If I blend them out until it's no longer obvious they don't match well, I lose much of the sun protection. Of the products below, only the Enlighten EE Cream in 01 Light actually matches my skin.

(NOTE: There are two shades of the same Double Wear BB Cream shown in pictures below, making six bottles in the line-up.)



From Left to Right:
  1. Double Wear All-Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF 30 - Intensity 1.0  ($38 - 1oz)
  2. Double Wear All-Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF 30 - Intensity 2.0  ($38 - 1oz)
  3. DayWear BB Anti-Oxidant Beauty Benefit Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 35  - 01 Light ($40 - 1oz)
  4. Clear Difference BB Complexion Perfecting BB  Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 35 - 01 Light ($40 - 1oz) - Available at Sephora.com but not on EsteeLauder.com.
  5. Crescent White BB Creme Broad Spectrum SPF 50 and Brightening Balm - (one color) ($50 - 1oz)
  6. Enlighten EE Even Effect Skintone Corrector Broad Spectrum SPF 30 - 01 Light ($40 - 1oz)

Review:

The differences between these BB creams, despite their claims, are minimal. They are thicker than most BB creams I've used, and difficult to blend, with the exception of the Enlighten EE Cream. That one blended very easily and looked most natural on my skin. The Double Wear BB cream does wear a bit longer than the other BB creams, but it takes some work to blend in, and the colors are, like all the BB creams, are very limited. The deciding factor between these BB cream sub-lines will likely be finding a color match rather than deciding on "beauty benefits."

I have found that the Crescent White BB Cream blends very well with my SPF 50 moisturizers, so I am going to hang to that one and the Enlighten EE Cream. The others might have great benefits for the skin, but the colors just don't work for me.


Flashback Results:



The above pictures shows the flashback seen in a flash photograph in a dark room. Only the lightest color in Double Wear BB Cream (Intensity 1) appears to have the potential for flashback. Even though the products are still a little wet on my skin, the Double Wear BB "Light' seems to grab more flashback than the others.


For reference, these are the colors in natural light:
.
After waiting about 15 minutes for the creams to oxidize a bit, I blended them down more and took another flash photograph in a dark room.




It's hard to see, but the first cream, Day Wear BB Cream in Intensity 1.0, is the only one that looks a little bright - the others show no flashback at all on me.


Ingredient Lists:

Double Wear All-Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup - SPF 30: Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Titanium Dioxide (5.2%), Zinc Oxide (3.2%). Inactive Ingredients: Water, Squalane, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Trehalose, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Caffeine, Stearic Acid, Sorbitol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Linoleic Acid, Alumina, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Silica, Tin Oxide, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Iron Oxides, Iron Oxides, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Yellow 5 Lake, Chromium Oxide Greens, Chromium Hydroxide Green, Carmine, Blue 1 Lake, Bismuth Oxychloride.

DayWear BB Anti-Oxidant Beauty Benefit Cream SPF 35: Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%; Octisalate 4.0%; Oxybenzone 2.50%; Titanium Dioxide 1.1%; Inactive Ingredients: Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Gentiana Lutea (Gentian) Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Artemia Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Cholesterol, Caffeine, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sucrose, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Linoleic Acid, Lecithin, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Ergothioneine, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Polysorbate-20, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Fumaric Acid, Alumina, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Silica, Fragrance, Ethylbisaminomethylguaiacol, Manganese Chloride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Iron Oxides, Yellow 5 Lake, Chromium Oxide Greens, Mica, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Chromium Hydroxide Green, Carmine, Bismuth Oxychloride, Blue 1 Lake

Clear Difference BB Complexion Perfecting Cream SPF 35: Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (4%), Oxybenzone (2.5%), Titanium Dioxide (1.1%). Inactive Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate , Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Gentiana Lutea (Gentian) Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Artemia Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Cholesterol, Caffeine, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sucrose, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Linoleic Acid, Lecithin, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Ergothioneine, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Fumaric Acid, Alumina, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium, Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Nordihydroguaiaretic, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Silica, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Iron Oxides, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Yellow 5 Lake, Chromium Oxide Greens, Chromium Hydroxide Green, Carmine, Blue 1 Lake, Bismuth Oxychloride.

Crescent White BB Creme: BB Creme SPF 50 and Brightening BalmActive Ingredients: Avobenzone 3.00%, Homosalate 5.00%, Octisalate 5.00%, Octocrylene 2.70%, Oxybenzone 3.00%. Inactive Ingredients: Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Neopentyl Glycol Dihepanoate, Aleurites Moluccana (Kukul) Seed Oil, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Trimethicione, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract\Extrait D’Orge, Algae Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Whey Protein\LactisProtein\Proteine Du Petit-Lait, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Caffeine, Lecithin, Yeast Extract\Faex\Extrat De Levure, Oryzanol, Sorbitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Cetyl Alcohol, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acrylolyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroxnathan Gum, Stearic Acid, Citric Acid, Tetrahecyldecyl Ascorbate, Silica, Fragrance (Parfum), Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Mica. Brightening Balm Ingredients: Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Synthetic Beeswax, Silica, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Jojoba Esters, Microcrystalline Wax\Cera Microcristallina\Cire Microcristalline, Polyethylene, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lecithin, PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl, Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Aluminum Powder (CI 77000), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Bronze Powder (CI 77400), Carmine (CI 75470), Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI 77289), Chromium Oxide Greens (CI 77288), Copper Powder (CI 77400), Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide (CI 77510), Red 6 (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140).

Enlighten EE Even Effect Skintone Corrector Cream: Active Ingredients: Homosalate 5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 2.7%, Oxybenzone 3%, Titanium Dioxide 1.9%. Inactive Ingredients: Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui) Seed Oil, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Whey Protein, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Yeast Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Cholesterol, Oryzanol, Sorbitol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Dextrin, Cetyl Alcohol, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Caffeine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Silica, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Alumina, Fragrance (Parfum), Tin Oxide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol. [+/- ] Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica.

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